For Leaders & Assistants

Those interested in participating as a leader or assistant in the climb school can email nmmcclimbing@gmail.com. We are currently running a poll through the end of February that allows leaders/assistants to specify their availability to volunteer for the schedule above.

Gear Requirements

(excerpted from the Handbook)

1. Personal Anchoring Device– Metolius or Sterling Personal Anchoring System (PAS) – This is a commonly used adjustable personal anchoring device utilizing a sling with sewn loops. Proper use will be demonstrated at Knot Night. The primary difference between the Metolius and Sterling PAS is the material. Sterling uses nylon while Metolius uses a Dyneema /nylon combination. The nylon provides a more dynamic tether that is considered by some to be safer. The Dyneema combination is lighter, less bulky and has a higher strength to weight ratio but it is less dynamic/stretchy than the nylon and it melts at a lower temperature than nylon.

2. Four Locking Carabiners – One larger opening, HMS pear-shaped, screw-locking carabiner is preferred for your belay/rappel device. (For those interested in what “HMS” means: http:// arbtalk.co.uk/forum/climbers-talk/16557-know-what-hms-stands.html.) The wider opening is easier to work with when you use multiple pieces of equipment or devices and when you are attaching equipment to your climbing harness belay loop. Three smaller asymmetrical D-shaped locking carabiners are preferred for other applications. There are many variations of locking carabiners available on the market.

3. Double Tube-Style Belay/Rappel Device – With enhanced friction and capacity for single and double 9 to 11mm climbing ropes. Examples: Black-Diamond ATC XP & ATC Guide; Trango Jaws; Wild-Country Pro Lite & Pro Guide Lite, Petzl Verso & Reverso. Note: The “Figure 8”, or auto-locking/auto-braking devices such as the Petzl GriGri, Wild Country Revo, are NOT suitable. Belay skills learned with a tubular device transfer to assisted braking devices. The basic tube-style belay device facilitates learning good belay technique. If you already own and wish to use a belay device without enhanced fiction capability (i.e., Black Diamond ATC, Trango Pyramid, etc), please contact the Climbing Chairperson.

4. Commercial Climbing Harness – Fit a harness wearing the clothes you expect to wear while climbing. Hang test your harness before buying to check fit and comfort! Harness features can be useful or gimmicky (and expensive). All harness manufacturers make a safe product. Make sure you understand how to wear and buckle your specific harness. Keep the instructions!

5. Helmet – A helmet designed for climbing is best, though if you’re uncertain whether you may continue climbing, you may use a bicycle helmet or a construction hard hat if it has the following mandatory features: A) Resilient shell B) Interior suspension system to hold the shell off the skull, ‘bicycle-style’ polystyrene foam, or hybrid of the two C) Adjustable chin strap attached to the shell.

6. Climbing Shoes – Climbing shoes are optional for the first outdoor session. They are required for subsequent sessions and the multi-pitch climb. If you’ve never worn a pair of climbing shoes or are unsure what to buy, we recommend you rent climbing shoes from a retail store. Don’t buy new, expensive climbing shoes unless you are certain that you will continue climbing. If you must have a new pair, note that some climbing shoe sales folks will recommend tight-fitting climbing shoes. Tight-fitting shoes with radically down-turned toes DO make a difference in performance for the highly skilled climber, but not for the novice. You are looking for all day comfort not the ‘agony of de-feet’. On your multi-pitch climb, you will be wearing the shoes for a full day without taking them off. New climbers tend to wear out their first pair of shoes relatively quickly, so feel free to size them comfortably and opt for economy.

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